Includes instructional guide for:
• Pre-installation
• Installation
• Break-in
• Maintenance
• Warranty overview
Please read this guide carefully as well as any instructions and product bulletins included with the engine.
Engines and cylinder heads
Installation, break-in, and maintenance instructions
Congratulations on your purchase of the finest remanufactured engine available. Before unpacking the item review all installation instructions, core instructions, and warranty information. If at any point you do not agree with the warranty, core, shipping, return or installation policies contact your seller immediately to return the item prior to unpacking it.
Proper installation is extremely important to avoid costly mistakes that can void your warranty. Correct installation, verifying and replacing engine support system components, and proper maintenance will lead to a long-lasting engine. If you are not confident in your ability please do not take on the RESPONSIBILITY of installing this engine, you may be liable for any damage resulting from improper installation or support system failure.
For any questions call the manufacturer tech line: 855-459-1650 This information contains partial instructions and is intended to be a guide only
1. WHEN YOU FIRST RECEIVE THE ENGINE
• Carefully inspect the item for damage in transit. Any shipping damage should be noted on the shipping receipt before signing and returning to the driver.
• Inspect the item to ensure it is the same as the unit you’re replacing. It is the installer’s sole responsibility to verify fitment before attempting to install the item.
• Read all warning tags and any additional information or product bulletins supplied with the engine.
• Have the most recently updated shop manuals available for information on factory specifications (torque, timing, etc.)
• Research all related manufacturer technical service bulletins (TSBs)
• Find out what caused the old engine to fail. This is the most important step in pre-installation; Address the issue so it does not cause the new engine to fail and void your warranty.
The intake manifold must be carefully and thoroughly cleaned.
Debris from the previous engine including piston, piston ring, valve, and valve seat material can be trapped in the intake manifold, intake plenum, and EGR system. This debris will be recycled into the new engine and will cause it to fail, voiding your warranty.
Damage to the new engine caused by engine support systems (fuel, ignition, cooling, etc.) is not covered by your warranty!!
2. CHECK ALL YOUR EXISTING COMPONENTS NOW
• Clean any parts which are to be reused, including bolts
• Only use gasket adhesive where required by the gasket manufacturer or vehicle manufacturer.
• Clean and flush fuel system, tank and lines, replace filters.
• Engine oil coolers must be replaced
• Inspect and replace radiator and cooling system
• Check all gasket and seal surfaces for damage. Clean the gasket mating surfaces of all parts being transferred from the old engine with a gasket scraper or razor blade. DO NOT CLEAN ANY SURFACE WITH SURFACE CONDITIONING DISKS OR ABRASIVE PAD/BRISTLE DEVICES as these can cause contamination to the new engine and/or damage the surfaces so they don’t seal (See “Surface Conditioning Disks warning on page 5)
• Clean major components thoroughly or replace them.
• IT IS THE INSTALLERS RESPONSIBILITY TO DIAGNOSE, REPAIR, REPLACE AND VERIFY PROPER OPERATION OF ALL ENGINE SUPPORT SYSTEMS.
• Recommended parts to inspect, clean, and replace if necessary: Oil Filter, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Crankcase Filter, PCV Valve, Radiator Hoses, Belts, By-pass Hose, Pulleys, Carburetor, EGR. Motor/transmission mounts, Catalytic Converters, Oil Cooler (req’d), Pickup Tube, Pickup Screen, Distributor Cap. Distributor Rotor. Ignition Coils. Spark Plugs. Ignition Wires. Thermostat & Seal, Radiator Cap. Water Pump, Fuel Pump, Intake Manifold, Exhaust Manifolds, Knock Sensor
Damage to the new engine caused by engine support systems (fuel, ignition, cooling, etc.) is not covered by your warranty!
3. AFTER INSTALLING THE ENGINE
• Check engine for interference
Rotates the crankshaft by hand a minimum of four complete revolutions before engaging the starter. Small pieces such as sockets, nuts, bolts, etc. that may have been dropped into the intake manifold or intake ports during installation will cause catastrophic failure to the new engine. If you cannot rotate the engine by hand stop immediately and inspect for foreign debris in the engine.
• Prime the engine and verify oil pressure
Use ONLY the weight and type of oil recommended in your owner's manual.
This is essential to avoid a dry start issue which will cause the engine to fail and void your warranty.
Engine oil coolers must be replaced and cooler lines cleaned thoroughly of all debris.
Disable the fuel and ignition system
Using a pressurized pre-lube engine oiling system is the preferred method. These can be purchased at most parts retailers.
Engines with a distributor can be primed with a priming tool and drill to rotate the oil pump shaft. Make sure that oil flows to the top of the engine and into the rocker arms.
Distributor-less engines can be cranked in short intervals, with the fuel and ignition systems disabled, until oil pressure is achieved. After reaching the correct oil pressure crank the engine for an additional few minutes to ensure the oiling system is purged of air.
After priming and purging the oiling system check and adjust oil levels as needed.
• Fill the new filter with oil
• Fill cooling system to manufacturer’s recommended level
Use the proper antifreeze/water concentration of original equipment manufacturers' recommendations.
Bleed cooling systems according to vehicle manufacturer guidelines; if this is not done overheating will occur.
Surface Conditioning Discs Warning for ENGINES and CYLINDER HEADS
The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information regarding the use of grinding discs as obtained from the General Motors Corporation. When cleaning engine gasket sealing surfaces, surface conditioning disks (typically constructed of woven fiber or molded bristles) which contain abrasives, such as a high amount of Aluminum Oxide, are NOT RECOMMENDED. The information contained in this bulletin supersedes any previously published GM service information regarding the use of surface conditioning disks and pertains to all current and previously manufactured engines.
The use of such surface conditioning discs dislodges Aluminum Oxide from the discs and metal particles, which can lead to premature engine bearing failure. In some cases, this failure occurs in as little as 1,000 miles or less after the repair has been made.
Surface conditioning discs may grind the component material and imbed it into the disc. This can result when more aggressive pressure is applied during the cleaning/grinding of the gasket surface. Do not use abrasive pad/bristle devices to clean the gasket surfaces of engine components. Abrasive pads or devices should not be used for the following reasons: Abrasive pads will produce fine grit that the oil filter will not be able to remove from the oil. The grit that cannot be filtered out has been known to cause engine damage.
Abrasive pads can easily remove enough material to round cylinder head surfaces. This has been known to affect the gasket’s ability to seal, especially in the narrow seal areas between the combustion chamber and the coolant jackets. Abrasive pads can also remove enough material to affect cylinder head, block, oil pan rail, and intake manifold runner flatness, which can cause coolant and oil leaks. It takes only about 15 seconds to remove .008” of metal with an abrasive pad. To clean such gasket mating surfaces, General Motors recommends the use of a razor blade or plastic gasket scraper. When cleaning gasket surfaces, please note the following: When using a razor blade type gasket scraper, use a new razor blade for each cylinder head and corresponding block surface. Hold the blade as parallel to the gasket surface as possible. This will ensure that the razor blade does not gouge or scratch the gasket surface. Do not gouge or scrape the combustion chamber surfaces. Do not gouge or scratch any engine-sealing surface during the cleaning process. The appearance of the gasket surface is not critical – the feel is. There is a possibility that there will be some indentations from the gasket left in the cylinder head after all the gasket material is removed. The new gasket will fill these small indentations when it is installed.
4. INITIAL STARTUP, BREAK-IN, AND MAINTENANCE
• Adjust valve lash
Engines equipped with adjustable rocker assemblies may need to be readjusted after initial startup
Refer to the manufacturer shop manual or call the tech line for assistance
• Check exhaust backpressure
How to do it: Remove the front oxygen sensor; if it is a V style engine or has multiple catalytic converters remove each of them individually. Test the backpressure between the engine and the catalytic converter using a back pressure test kit. If you do not have a back pressure test kit any low-pressure gauge will work. Warm up the engine and run it at a steady 2200 rpm, then read the gauge. 1-2 pounds is acceptable, but anything over 2 pounds means there is a restriction.
Why checking the backpressure is important: A restricted exhaust system means that the exhaust system is not functioning properly which can lead to premature engine failure including but not limited to burnt valves, scored pistons, or blown head gaskets. Engine failure caused by a restricted exhaust system is not covered under your warranty (no matter who you buy the engine from!) so it is in everyone’s best interest to measure backpressure when installing a new engine.
Record back pressure results on your warranty registration card
• Never add cold water to the cooling system while the engine is running. The engine should be allowed to run at a normal operating temperature.
• Start the engine and run at a fast idle, approximately 1500 RPM, and check the oil pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though coolant may rise to operate temperature in a few minutes. If applicable, adjust tappets, carburetor, and ignition timing. If the coolant should “boil over,” stop the engine and allow it to cool, then start the process over.
• Retorque cylinder heads and manifold if required by the manufacturer
• Start the engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 MPH in the “drive” range or select the proper gears for standard transmissions. Periodically accelerate to 50 MPH and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are “breaking-in” the engine. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and ring assemblies.
• For the first 500 miles:
Do not drive at continuous speeds for long periods; always vary your speed.
Do not tow a trailer or put any heavy load on the vehicle to avoid “lugging”
It is recommended to check the oil and coolant levels daily or every 100 miles
• After 500 miles:
Change the engine oil and oil filter
Check fuel, ignition and cooling system components
If applicable or recommended by the manufacturer, adjust valves and retorque cylinder heads and manifolds
• Don’t forget to complete your warranty registration
• Perform scheduled maintenance as outlined in your vehicle’s owner manual. If you are unsure or have questions on routine maintenance call the manufacturer.
• Failure to perform routine maintenance can result in engine damage that may not be covered under your warranty. Retain all records (invoices, receipts, repair orders, etc) related to service or maintenance performed on your engine or engine support system. In the event of a product failure, you will be required to provide copies of maintenance records and the installation invoice.
5. ABOUT YOUR WARRANTY
For actual terms and limitations of your warranty, refer to the "Limited Warranties" document. If you do not receive a copy of the Limited Warranty and Warranty Registration, call your supplier immediately.
The manufacturer’s warranty is intended to provide coverage for defects in the parts and workmanship of the part provided by the manufacturer only.
The manufacturer’s warranty is not intended to cover:
Normal wear
Improper maintenance
Failure caused by parts that are not supplied by the manufacturer
Failure resulting from pre-ignition, detonation, or overheating (usually but not limited to burnt/leaking head gaskets, burnt/melted/broken piston or piston rings, damaged cylinder heads, etc.)
Repair or replacement of engine support system including belts, hoses, filters, cooling, fuel, ignition systems, etc.
Repair or replacement resulting from an accident
Products used in competition, racing, off-road, or modified applications
Failure resulting from abuse or misuse
Failure resulting from electrolysis
Productsinstalledin applications not originally equipped with the product purchased
Crankshaft thrust surface failure (caused by excessive forward pressure on the crank)
Repairs performed or attempted without authorization
Damage to the engine caused by stale, contaminated, or deteriorated fuel
Failure caused by lack of lubrication
Failure or damage caused by dirt or debris
Failure caused by excessive vibration
Failure or component failure caused by use of alternate fuels
Rust or Corrosion
Any product repaired or replaced under an approved warranty claim will carry the remainder of the original warranty (the warranty does not start over).
The manufacturer is not liable for loss of profits, sales, income, injury to person or property, towing charges, rental car expenses, storage fees, telephone expenses, freight, substitute transportation, lodging, fluids, filters, shop expenses, or unauthorized repairs. The manufacturer will (at their discretion) repair, replace, or refund the product once the manufacturer determines the product is defective. All warranty claims are pending the analysis of the failed product. See actual Limited Warranty document for full details of coverage and restrictions. View warranties now
P65 WARNING PROPOSITION 65 WARNING
Crude oil, gasoline, diesel fuel, and other petroleum products can expose you to chemicals including toluene and benzene which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/petroleum
Installation Checklist:
□ Reviewed all installation instructions, core policy, and warranty information
□ Read all warning tags and product bulletins, and researched all manufacturer TSBs
□ Found out what caused the old engine to fail.
The previous engine failed from:
and I fixed it by:
□ Replaced or eliminated the engine oil cooler (when applicable)
□ Inspected, cleaned, and replaced as necessary the:
o Pickup tube & screen
o Oil pump drive
o Oil pan
o Distributor cap
o Distributor rotor
o Distributor gear
o Ignition coils
o Spark plugs
o Ignition wires
o Thermostat and seal
o Radiator cap
o Water pump
o Fuel pump
o Intake manifold
o Exhaust manifolds
□ Checked for engine interference
o Knock sensor
o Oil filter
o Fuel filter
o Air filter
o Crankcase filter
o PCV valve
o Radiator hoses
o Belts
o By-pass hose
o Pulleys
o Carburetor
o EGR
o Motor & transmission mounts
o Catalytic converter
□ Primed engine and verified oil pressure with a manual gauge
□ Filled oil, coolant, and all necessary fluids to the manufacturers recommended levels
□ Bled cooling systems according to manufacturer guidelines
□ Adjusted valve lash where required
□ Checked exhaust backpressure and recorded on the warranty registration card
□ Completed proper engine break-in as outlined in the guide
□ Filled out and sent back warranty registration card to the manufacturer